The Most Difficult 8,000-Meter Peak, Ranked

Choose the 8,000-meter peak you think is the most difficult!

Author: Gregor Krambs
Updated on May 10, 2024 06:23
High-altitude mountaineering presents climbers with extreme challenges, each person bravely faces as they seek to conquer the world's highest peaks. Determining the most difficult 8,000-meter peak can be of great help, as it provides clarity on potential dangers and necessary preparations. This sorting helps both seasoned climbers and novices set realistic goals for their expeditions. Here, you have the chance to participate in forming a consensus on which of these towering giants are the toughest to scale. By voting on these mountains, your experience and perspective contribute to a broader understanding, guiding future climbers in their quest for adventure. Your participation actively shapes the guidance and insights that help others navigate these formidable ascents.

What Is the Most Difficult 8,000-Meter Peak?

  1. 1
    74
    votes

    K2

    Often referred to as the "Savage Mountain," K2 is known for its steep and technical climbing routes, unpredictable weather conditions, and high fatality rate. It is considered the most difficult 8,000-meter peak due to its challenging terrain and unpredictable weather.
    K2, also known as Mount Godwin-Austen or Chhogori, is the second tallest mountain in the world and is considered one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks to climb. It is located on the border between Pakistan and China's Xinjiang region in the Karakoram range. K2 is known for its treacherous weather conditions, technical climbing challenges, and high fatality rate among climbers.
    • Height: 8,611 meters (28,251 feet)
    • Location: Pakistan & China
    • Range: Karakoram
    • First Ascent: 31 July 1954 by Italian climbers Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli
    • Prominence: 4,017 meters (13,186 feet)
  2. 2
    23
    votes
    Known for its steep and technical climbing routes, Annapurna is considered one of the most challenging 8,000-meter peaks. It has a high fatality rate, and the weather conditions can be unpredictable.
    Annapurna is one of the most challenging and dangerous 8,000-meter peaks in the world. It is located in the Annapurna Conservation Area of Nepal, within the Himalayas. Standing at an elevation of 8,091 meters (26,545 feet), it is the 10th highest mountain globally. Annapurna consists of multiple peaks, with Annapurna I Main being the highest. It was first climbed in 1950 by a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog. The mountain is renowned for its steep and icy slopes, unpredictable weather conditions, and technical difficulty, making it a formidable expedition for climbers. The stunning beauty of the surrounding Annapurna massif and the rich cultural heritage of the region also attract adventure enthusiasts and trekkers from around the world.
    • Elevation: 8,091 meters (26,545 feet)
    • First Ascent: June 3, 1950
    • Location: Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
    • Range: Himalayas
    • Rank: 10th highest peak globally
  3. 3
    21
    votes
    Known as the "Killer Mountain," Nanga Parbat is considered one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks due to its steep and technical climbing routes, unpredictable weather, and high fatality rate.
    Nanga Parbat is a challenging mountain peak located in the western Himalayas in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It is the ninth highest mountain in the world and has gained a reputation as one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks to climb. Nanga Parbat is known for its treacherous climbing conditions, unpredictable weather, and landslide-prone slopes, which make it a daunting mountaineering expedition.
    • Elevation: 8,126 meters (26,660 feet)
    • Location: Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
    • Mountain Range: Himalayas
    • Prominence: 4,608 meters (15,118 feet)
    • First Ascent: July 3, 1953 by Hermann Buhl
    Nanga Parbat in other rankings
  4. 4
    16
    votes
    The third-highest peak in the world, Kangchenjunga is known for its difficult climbing routes and unpredictable weather conditions. It is considered a challenging climb due to its steep terrain and high altitude.
    Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world, with an elevation of 8,586 meters (28,169 feet). It is located in the Himalayas on the border between Nepal and India. The name Kangchenjunga translates to 'Five Treasures of Snows' in the Tibetan language, referring to the five prominent peaks that make up the mountain.
    • Elevation: 8,586 meters (28,169 feet)
    • Location: Nepal and India
    • Range: Himalayas
    • Prominence: 3,922 meters (12,871 feet)
    • First Ascent: May 25, 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band
  5. 5
    24
    votes
    With its steep and technical climbing routes, Makalu is considered one of the most challenging 8,000-meter peaks. It is known for its unpredictable weather conditions and high altitude.
    Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world, located in the Mahalangur Himalayas in Nepal. It stands at an elevation of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) above sea level. Makalu is known for its challenging climbing routes and extreme weather conditions, making it one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks to summit.
    • Elevation: 8,485 meters (27,838 feet)
    • Location: Mahalangur Himalayas, Nepal
    • First Ascent: May 15, 1955
    • Prominence: 2,386 meters (7,828 feet)
    • Range: Himalayas
  6. 6
    10
    votes
    Known for its steep and technical climbing routes and unpredictable weather conditions, Dhaulagiri is considered a difficult climb due to its high altitude and challenging terrain.
    Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world and is located in the western part of Nepal. It is widely considered one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks to climb. The name 'Dhaulagiri' translates to 'White Mountain' in Sanskrit and refers to the stunning snow-capped peak that dominates the region. Dhaulagiri is known for its challenging routes, unpredictable weather conditions, and technical climbing sections, making it a true test of mountaineering skills and endurance.
    • Elevation: 8,167 meters (26,795 feet)
    • Location: Western Nepal
    • Mountain Range: Himalayas
    • First Ascent: May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Nyima Dorje, Nawang Dorje, and Nima Dorje Sherpa
    • Prominence: 2,335 meters (7,661 feet)
  7. 7
    12
    votes

    Cho Oyu

    Montgomery Atwater
    While not as technically challenging as some of the other 8,000-meter peaks, Cho Oyu is known for its high altitude and unpredictable weather conditions. It is considered a difficult climb due to its steep terrain and the challenges of climbing at high altitude.
    Cho Oyu is the sixth tallest mountain in the world, located on the border of Nepal and Tibet. It is considered one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks to climb due to its steep and technical slopes.
    • Elevation: 8,188 meters (26,864 feet)
    • Location: Nepal/Tibet border
    • First ascent: October 19, 1954
    • Difficulty: Technical and challenging
    • Climbing routes: Northwest ridge, West ridge, Southeast face
  8. 8
    12
    votes
    Located in a remote area of Tibet, Shishapangma is known for its steep and technical climbing routes, unpredictable weather conditions, and high altitude. It is considered a challenging climb due to its difficult terrain and the challenges of climbing at high altitude.
    Shishapangma, also known as Gosainthan, is the fourteenth highest mountain in the world and the lowest of the 8,000-meter peaks. It is located in the Tibet Autonomous Region of China, near the border of Nepal. Shishapangma is known for its towering summit, awe-inspiring glaciers, and challenging climbing routes.
    • Elevation: 8,027 meters (26,335 feet)
    • Location: Tibet Autonomous Region, China
    • Mountain Range: Himalayas
    • Prominence: 2,897 meters (9,505 feet)
    • First Ascent: May 2, 1964
  9. 9
    9
    votes

    Gasherbrum II

    Fritz Moravec
    Known for its steep and technical climbing routes and unpredictable weather conditions, Gasherbrum II is considered a challenging climb due to its high altitude and challenging terrain.
    Gasherbrum II is one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks located in the Gasherbrum massif of the Karakoram range on the border between India and Pakistan. It is also known as K4 and stands at an elevation of 8,035 meters (26,362 feet). It was first climbed on July 7, 1956, by an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec.
    • Elevation: 8,035 meters (26,362 feet)
    • First Climbed: July 7, 1956
    • Location: Gasherbrum massif, Karakoram range
    • Other Name: K4
  10. 10
    9
    votes
    Broad Peak
    Kogo · CC BY-SA 3.0
    Known for its steep and technical climbing routes and unpredictable weather conditions, Broad Peak is considered a challenging climb due to its high altitude and challenging terrain.
    Broad Peak, also known as K3, is the twelfth highest mountain in the world with an elevation of 8,051 meters (26,414 ft). It is located in the Karakoram range on the border of Pakistan and China. Broad Peak is known for its distinct summit pyramid and is considered one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks to summit.
    • Difficulty: Considered one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks to summit
    • Elevation: 8,051 meters (26,414 ft)
    • Location: Karakoram range, on the border of Pakistan and China
    • Ranking: Twelfth highest mountain in the world
    • First Ascent: June 9, 1957

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Ranking factors for difficult 8,000-meter peak

  1. Technical difficulty
    A significant factor in ranking these peaks is their technical difficulty, which includes steepness, ice and rock climbing, and the complexity of routes. Peaks with higher technical difficulty require more advanced climbing skills and experience.
  2. Altitude
    The height of the peak is critical as it determines the atmospheric pressure, oxygen levels, and weather conditions a climber will face. Higher peaks require climbers to contend with thinner air and higher exposure to altitude sickness.
  3. Weather conditions
    Peaks with more unpredictable and adverse weather conditions—such as high winds, intense cold, and frequent storms—pose significant challenges to climbers and impact the difficulty of the ascent.
  4. Objective hazards
    Factors like avalanches, crevasses, seracs, and rockfalls pose risks to climbers and contribute to the overall difficulty of a peak.
  5. Base camp access and logistics
    Difficult access to a peak's base camp, challenging approaches, and complicated logistics may contribute to the difficulty level.
  6. Success rate and fatality rate
    The historical success rate and fatality rate of climbers on a peak can be a strong indicator of overall difficulty. Peaks with a low success rate and high fatality rate indicate the high degree of challenges that climbers face.
  7. Time and duration
    The length of the climbing season and the time required to complete an ascent can be critical factors in determining the difficulty of an 8,000-meter peak.
  8. Remoteness
    Peaks located in more isolated and less-developed regions may pose additional logistical and situational challenges for climbers, making them more difficult compared to those in more accessible and developed regions.

About this ranking

This is a community-based ranking of the most difficult 8,000-meter peak. We do our best to provide fair voting, but it is not intended to be exhaustive. So if you notice something or Peak is missing, feel free to help improve the ranking!

Statistics

  • 1970 views
  • 210 votes
  • 10 ranked items

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Voting Rules

A participant may cast an up or down vote for each Peak once every 24 hours. The rank of each Peak is then calculated from the weighted sum of all up and down votes.

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More information on most difficult 8,000-meter peak

Background Information: The Most Difficult 8,000-Meter Peak The 8,000-meter peaks are the highest mountains in the world, and climbing them is considered the ultimate challenge for mountaineers. There are 14 of these peaks, all located in the Himalayas and the Karakoram range. However, not all of them are equally difficult to climb. In fact, some of them are considered to be among the most dangerous and challenging climbs in the world. One of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks is K2, also known as Mount Godwin-Austen. It is the second-highest mountain in the world and is located on the border between Pakistan and China. K2 is known for its steep, technical climbing and unpredictable weather conditions. It has a fatality rate of approximately 25%, making it one of the deadliest mountains to climb. Another difficult 8,000-meter peak is Annapurna, located in Nepal. It is the tenth highest mountain in the world and has the highest fatality rate of all the 8,000-meter peaks, at approximately 32%. Annapurna is known for its steep, icy slopes, avalanche-prone terrain, and unpredictable weather conditions. Other difficult 8,000-meter peaks include Nanga Parbat, Dhaulagiri, and Shishapangma. Each of these mountains presents unique challenges to climbers and requires a high level of skill and experience to successfully summit.

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